Planning Your Escape to the Central Italian Countryside
The stunning walls surrounding the exterior of the hill-top town of Orvieto.

Written by Benjamin Tomkins

Benjamin Tomkins is a violinist, composer, writer, and educator with over 30 years of experience. He serves as Content Manager and Senior Writer for Em Dash Content Studio and as Executive Director of the Colorado Bach Ensemble.

December 19, 2024

Visiting central Italy is a must for any enthusiastic travelers who love food, wine, art, history, and adventure that only the Old Country can deliver. From the ruins of the ancient Roman forum to the top of the iconic cathedral in Florence, there’s no shortage of culture and Sangiovese to be savored in the piazzas and cobbled corridors of these iconic getaway destinations.

But after sweltering in the streets, fighting the crowds, seeing the sights, and throwing back more than a few negronis to beat the heat, many start dreaming of the gently beckoning hills and slower pace of life hiding in the villages and vineyards of the Italian countryside. For millennia, the elites of both cities have fled the sweat and bustle to embrace the rustic peacefulness of a simpler life.

If you’re ready to escape into the less traveled regions where traditional Italian culture and a truly restorative, authentic travel experience can still be found, you’re speaking our language. Here’s where to find the hidden gems and get a taste of the sweet life in the Italian countryside on your next trip to Florence and Rome.

Discovering the Hill Towns and Villages of Umbria and Tuscany

Once you leave Rome on the train heading north, the green fields and great wine of Umbria and Tuscany open up before you. You’re following in the footsteps of ancient Roman aristocrats, papal entourages, and Renaissance dukes as they left the grime of the city behind for cool hills and country estates.

Many of these provincial retreats grew into famous centers for artists and artisan products, and wealthy patrons adorned their favorite locales with grand cathedrals and palaces. Because of their idyllic locations, many of them have been inhabited for thousands of years and sport impressive archeological wonders.

Some of these towns are a bit off the beaten path, others are just up the road from an unassuming train stop. Whether you’re looking for a satisfying day trip or a week soaking up the sights and local culture, these four towns are the perfect Italian countryside destination.

Montepulciano is a beautiful town in Tuscany, Italy. It's famous for its vineyards and wine, but it also has a lot of medieval architecture, including these beautiful alleyways.

Montepulciano

Located in the province of Siena in southern Tuscany, Montepulciano is a classic Italian hill town surrounded by vineyards that produce the coveted blood-red Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. This is one of the wines that has ensured Tuscany’s place as an international center for all things Sangiovese, and its 75+ wineries produce nearly 10 million bottles every year from its fertile slopes.

If you are thirsting for a world-class wine tour with plenty of time to stroll through the Piazza Grande’s restaurants, palace, and late 14th-century architecture, Montepulciano is waiting for you.

Orvieto

The home of Renaissance nobility and Etruscans alike, Orvieto is quite simply one of the most beautiful and historic hill towns anywhere in the Italian countryside. Set high on volcanic tufo cliffs that were extensively tunneled by its former inhabitants since the 9th century, Orvieto is one of the most culturally and aesthetically fulfilling destinations in all of Italy—and it’s just a 10-minute funiculare ride to the old city walls from the main train line between Rome and Florence.

The walled city is crowned by an extensively decorated Duomo that is widely considered to be one of the most beautiful in all of Europe. It’s also renowned for its leather goods, ceramics, crafts, and above all its food and wine. Its restaurants serve traditional Umbrian cuisine featuring all the good things the region has to offer like ragú bianco di cinghiale—a rich wild boar preparation in a white wine sauce topped with a generous portion of local black truffles. To pair? Orvieto Classico ranked among the finest wines from Rome to Florence.

All of these qualities have made it a cultural hub for the region, featuring art exhibitions in its numerous galleries, bicycle wine tours into the Italian countryside, and Vespa and Ferrari exhibitions. And in the early summer, some of the finest young classical musicians in the world assemble at Orvieto Musica for a three-week music celebration in the city.

If you are thirsting for a world-class wine tour with plenty of time to stroll through the Piazza Grande’s restaurants, palace, and late 14th-century architecture, Montepulciano is waiting for you.

A photo of Orvieto's magnificent cathedral.
The stunning walls surrounding the exterior of the hill-top town of Orvieto.
Montepulciano is a beautiful town in Tuscany, Italy. It's famous for its vineyards and wine, but it also has a lot of medieval architecture, including these beautiful alleyways.

Volterra

A trip to Volterra takes visitors a little farther into the Tuscan countryside, but if you’re a lover of archaeology, history, and art, it might be the perfect rustic retreat. While its hilltop city walls and cathedral are not as impressive as Orvieto, it boasts an Etruscan acropolis, museum, and a Roman amphitheater complex including 3rd-century baths.

Volterra is particularly renowned for its alabaster production, and the alabastrai are still creating some of the finest pieces in a wide range of colors and translucency. You can visit the museum dedicated to the prized material, and if you’re visiting in spring or fall you can catch the local food and wine fair.

Pienza

Situated in the verdant Val d’Orcia, Pienza is a UNESCO world heritage site that still preserves a lot of its pastoral innocence. That’s why it’s only accessible by car, but when you get to the top of the hill, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of the Tuscan countryside where the famous Brunello di Montalcino wines are born. They pair wonderfully with Pecorino di Pienza—widely considered one of the best pecorinos in the world.

Perhaps that’s why Pope Pius II made Piccolomini Palace his official summer residence. Designed by famed architect Bernardo Rossellino in the 15th century, it represents the first true Renaissance city layout along with the Duomo, Piazza Pio II, and Diocesan Museum (Palazzo Borgia). It’s an ideal place to relax, enjoy rich culture and history, and explore the Italian countryside.

A photo of Orvieto's magnificent cathedral.

Cultural Events

The people of Tuscany and Umbria have a tremendous zest for life, and every year is marked with traditional religious festivals and cultural events. Holidays like the Feast of the Immaculate Conception are celebrated everywhere to mark the beginning of Christmas, and various parades and feasts produce colorful celebrations of miracles and memories.

Italy is also a hotbed of automotive excellence. The Ferrari Cavalcade—a procession of hundreds of new and historical cars from the iconic manufacturer—takes a different route across Italy every year, and scenic Umbria and Tuscany are popular choices. Vespa clubs are also common in the region because of the stunning old-world towns, glittering lakes, and rolling hills. It’s easy to rent one or join a tour for an Italian countryside excursion.

Of course, if you love music, Italy is undoubtedly the place to be. Some of the most important arts and chamber music festivals in the country take place in the towns between Florence and Rome, and they make for ideal getaways for cultural lovers who want to combine incredible music, art, food, wine, local craftsmanship, and a taste of traditional Italian culture.

  • Orvieto Musica is the premiere Italian chamber music festival, featuring an international roster of some of the finest emerging professional performers and a world-class faculty in late June and early July. A day trip to Orvieto or a week-long excursion to soak up the local experience will be rewarded with performances by strings, vocalists, brass, and organ in historic venues and throughout the city’s piazzas.
  • Umbria Jazz Festival. This 10-day celebration of contemporary musical creativity has been held in Perugia since 1973, and it’s considered one of the best jazz festivals in the world. Running from mid to late July, it’s a perfect follow-on for Orvieto Musica in the region for visitors who want to let their ears guide their Italy excursion.
  • Pistoia Blues has brought legendary artists like Jimmy Page and Pat Metheny to the Tuscan countryside for a 5-day festival celebrating wailing solos and wallowing lyrics. If you’re venturing north of Florence, a trip to Pistoia in July might need to be on the itinerary.

 

Tuscan and Umbrian Cuisine

If you’re a lover of Italian food, the rural regions of Tuscany and Umbria are home to some of the most iconic dishes and ingredients that have defined the country’s culinary reputation. And while Tuscany has a reputation for cheese and greens, the wild game and fresh produce of Umbria are widely considered to be some of the best food in the nation. 

Meat and Game

Cinghiale—the famous wild boar found in ragu dishes from both provinces—run wild through the Italian countryside between Florence and Rome. Tuscans braise it with tomatoes and red wine for a rich and unctuous flavor, while the Umbrians prefer ragú bianco, a savory white sauce with ground boar and a generous helping of black truffles.

Pork is also on the menu, with towns like Orvieto being famous for their crispy-skinned porchetta. Norcia in eastern Umbria produces mild pork sausages that go in the celebrated pasta alla Norcina—a creamy dish of white wine, pecorino, and black truffles.

And, of course, no trip to Tuscany would be complete without bistecca alla fiorentina. The Medicis were big fans of steak, and this large, grilled T-bone is a highlight for any meat lover. Just bring a friend, because it’s easily enough for two!

Montepulciano is a beautiful town in Tuscany, Italy. It's famous for its vineyards and wine, but it also has a lot of medieval architecture, including these beautiful alleyways.

Charcuterie

Umbria is also a well-respected producer of cured meats, and there will be no shortage of regional delicacies to enjoy with a crisp glass of white wine. While most of the best prosciutto comes from farther north, Prosciutto di Norcia is a flavorful exception that has attained its own Protected Geographical Indication (IGP) status.

The Umbrian table also features corallina salami which is named for its distinctive coral red color. You will also find excellent coppa, capocollo, and salame al tartufo, and the guanciale (cured pork jowl) is a signature ingredient in Rome’s most authentic and sought-after carbonaras.

Produce and Cheese

Tomatoes are synonymous with Italy, but believe it or not… you can’t get a good tomato in Rome! Many Romans take the train an hour north to the Piazza del Popolo farmers market in Orvieto just to buy the best and freshest produce in the region. There’s no shortage of fresh mushrooms, beans, squash blossoms, tomato varieties, fruit, olives, nuts, meats, and cheeses.

The most beloved beans come from Tuscany. The famous white Cannelli variety shows up in stews, on bruschetta, and in a variety of Tuscan white bean soups that are also made with the famous Florentine spinach—another trademark of the region. Finally, the best pecorino comes from the western Tuscan valleys, and each producer’s flavor reflects the climate and diet of their local sheep.

But the undisputed champion of all produce is the Umbrian black truffle, which is at its absolute peak in the early summer months. Visitors to the region will be delighted to find it in restaurants throughout the region, and at a remarkably generous and affordable price.

Montepulciano is a beautiful town in Tuscany, Italy. It's famous for its vineyards and wine, but it also has a lot of medieval architecture, including these beautiful alleyways.
Montepulciano is a beautiful town in Tuscany, Italy. It's famous for its vineyards and wine, but it also has a lot of medieval architecture, including these beautiful alleyways.

Pasta

Tuscan and Umbrian pasta tends to be fresh, unlike the spaghetti and rigatoni found in many Roman restaurants. Tuscans serve their cinghiale ragu with pappardelle, but in Umbria, you can expect a plate of hand-rolled umbrichelli (called “pici” in the Val d’Orcia). There are also many varieties of stuffed pas ata like tortelli, and each restaurant has its signature primi courses alongside the regional classics.

The Wines of the Central Italian Countryside

A glass of deep-red Tuscan wine on a patio overlooking the vineyards at sunset is the definition of la dolce vita—the sweet life travelers, adventurers, and dreamers are yearning for when they book a trip to the Bel Paesa. Tuscany’s reputation for wine is well-deserved, and the black clusters of Sangiovese grapes its hills and valley produce are the foundation of some of the finest wines found anywhere in the world.

  • Chianti. This bright red, high-tannin wine is ideal for the table when it’s young and fresh. Hints of irises, violets, and vanilla make it a perfect partner for the wild game, red meat, and aged cheeses that permeate the cuisine of the Italian countryside.
  • Brunello di Montalcino. This medium-bodied, high-acidity Tuscan superstar was among the first three wines granted the coveted DOCG status. Those lucky enough to try a bottle are treated to a complex profile of plums, figs, black cherries, and strawberries that are balanced with notes of leather, undergrowth, and high tannins that reflect its rustic origins.
  • Vino Nobile de Montepulciano. This is the most classic of classic Italian wines, with origins dating back to the Roman Empire. In contrast to its neighbor Brunello, the notes of plums, strawberries, and dark fruit in the Vino Nobile are balanced with low tannins and high acidity. It’s been considered a king of Italian wine since the 17th century and was in the inaugural DOCG class.

Of course, there are many, many excellent wines both red and white that come from Tuscany and Umbria in addition to the giants listed above, and even the most humble house wine is typically far superior to most comparably priced sip anywhere else. Here are some of the best wines to round out your evening’s course selection when dining in the central Italian countryside.

  • Orvieto Classico. This crisp, dry white features notes like grapefruit, melon, peaches, and pears, and is perfect for Umbria’s hot summer days. The soil in the region has been recognized for millennia for the quality of Trebbiano grapes it produces, and local winemakers like Argillae have perfected this ideal counterpart for the big Tuscan reds.
  • Montefalco Sagrantino. Made in the Perugia region of Umbria, it comes in both secco and passito styles (dry and sweet). The secco is high in tannins from the thick skins of the Sagrantino grapes and consequently benefits from aging. The sweeter variety is produced by drying the grapes to concentrate their natural sugars and pairs well with pastries, jams, chocolate, and local aged cheeses.
  • Vin Santo. The “holy wine” from Tuscany is a quintessential dessert wine that can range from dry to extremely sweet. It features perfumed notes of caramel, honey, tropical fruits, and dried apricots that make it an excellent companion for cakes, pastries, and even blue cheese.

 

Exploring History and Archeology

Italy is a country rich in history, and travelers who only stay on the beaten path could almost be forgiven for believing the Renaissance was unique to Florence and the Roman Empire was the first sign of life on The Boot. 

The truth is, while these cities are unquestionably focal points for history enthusiasts, many of the most important archaeological sites and museums are scattered throughout the hill towns and villages in the central Italian countryside. Here are some of the most important churches, palaces, and ancient archeological sites waiting for you when you hop on the train.

Montepulciano is a beautiful town in Tuscany, Italy. It's famous for its vineyards and wine, but it also has a lot of medieval architecture, including these beautiful alleyways.

Etruscan Sites

The Etruscans were the inhabitants of Italy before the rise of Rome, and the first evidence of their civilization comes from around 1000 B.C.E. However, you’ll have to leave Rome to find them! Rome itself was not an Etruscan city, and while it has several excellent museums, the top sites are found in the Tuscan and Umbrian countryside.

Monumental tombs and archaeological museums at Cerviteri and Tarquinia, and the excavations at Chiusi are highly rewarding stops. In Umbria, Orvieto’s tufa bluffs are full of underground tunnels carved out by the Etruscans for safety, water, and travel. There is also a necropolis on the outskirts of the city, and the National Archeological Museum of Orvieto has assembled one of the most important collections of Etruscan objects in the world. There’s a reason longtime Orvieto residents sometimes refer to themselves as Etruscans!

Roman Architecture and Culture

The remains of the villas of Roman aristocrats dot the landscape of Umbria and Tuscany, and there are many excavations of former cities and retreats. Volterra is a highlight with an amphitheater and baths, and if you’re staying in Florence, a quick trip up the hill to Fiesole will deliver stunning views of the city as well as a Roman theater that still hosts plays and events.

In Umbria, Todi’s system of underground Roman cisterns lies beneath its Roman forum, and it’s a great home base to explore other archeological sites in the region. You’ll have easy access to Assisi (yes, that Assisi!) and Spoleto, both of which have extensive Roman temples, houses, and many other civil and religious structures of note.

Montepulciano is a beautiful town in Tuscany, Italy. It's famous for its vineyards and wine, but it also has a lot of medieval architecture, including these beautiful alleyways.

Medieval and Renaissance Italy

The pointed arches of Gothic architecture dominated Europe from the 12th to the 16th centuries, and Tuscany and Umbria are full of incredible examples. The Duomo at Orvieto soars above the landscape with a facade that is gorgeously finished with mosaics, gold, bas-relief, and bronze statuary. It’s widely ranked among the most beautiful cathedrals in the world, and a can’t-miss stop if you’re taking the train from Rome to Florence.

Tuscany’s Renaissance center is undoubtedly Florence, but there are plenty of opportunities to discover its palaces, villas, piazzas, and duomos if you’re relaxing in wine country. Pienza in the Val d’Orcia is a classic stop with many historical buildings designed by famed architect Bernardo Rossellino, and the papal palace sports one of Italy’s first roof gardens. UNESCO World Heritage site San Gimignano is celebrated for its wealth of medieval towers that create an unforgettable skyline high above the Italian countryside.

A Taste of Traditional Italian Life

Anyone who’s spent a day in Rome can attest to the sweaty side streets, packed restaurants, swinging backpacks, and legions of tourists swamping every corner of the city you came to enjoy. For some, the frenetic bustle goes hand-in-hand with travel, but for many others, it’s a rude awakening from the experience they’ve been dreaming of.

The central Italian countryside offers an escape to a place where fresh food, clean air, open spaces, plenty of outdoor activities, and a restorative glass of red wine (obviously!) are always on the menu. The hill towns of rural Tuscany and Umbria are where traditional Italian culture and a slower pace of life still exist, and the hours of the day are marked by friendly local interactions, sunny excursions, lovingly-plated meals, and relaxing sunsets with friends.

Perhaps that’s why the average life expectancy of Italians is nearly 83, and Blue Zones like Sardinia stand in testament to the invigorating fulfillment a timeless approach to beautiful living can bring. A picture on Instagram may be worth a thousand words, but a trip into the ancient fields, vineyards, and villages between Rome and Florence is where you’ll learn the secrets no picture could ever tell.

Experience La Dolce Vita with Orvieto Musica

If you’re a lover of food, wine, culture, the arts, and all of the wonderful things the Italian countryside has to offer, embrace the La Dolce Vita experience with Orvieto Music this summer. OM is a world-class chamber music festival located in the iconic hill town of Orvieto, Italy in the heart of Umbria.

For three weeks, a talented international roster of emerging string, vocal, and brass performers immerse themselves in masterclasses and coaching with an acclaimed international panel of artists and showcase their virtuosity in the city’s most historic venues. Visitors in the La Dolce Vita experience are given unprecedented access to all the artists and festival activities, as well as treated to a carefully curated range of activities that showcase the best of what the region has to offer, including:

  • A chef’s table introduction to local cuisine
  • Bicycle tours of regional wineries
  • Tours of the spectacular Duomo and the Etruscan Orvieto Underground
  • An organ concert in the Duomo
  • A medieval tile painting workshop with local artisans
  • Trips to Lago Bolseno
  • Pre-concert talks, events, and signature Aperol receptions
  • Tours of Orvieto, its historic churches, and the surrounding environment
  • Unrestricted access to all festival activities and chamber music concerts

If you’re dreaming of your next trip to Italy and aching to connect with authentic culture, artistic virtuosity, and like-minded adventurers, it’s time to turn your eyes toward the Tuscan and Umbrian horizon. Start exploring the La Dolce Vita experience at Orvieto Musica and discover how sweet life in the Italian countryside can be.